This is a
delightfully desolate area, and we particularly enjoy it
in the peak of the summer heat. Tourist traffic is
light, and it is primarily Germans and other
Europeans. The only down-side of being here in the
summer is that Amagorsa Opera House is closed for the
season.
The history seems
to be genuine: twenty-mule teams carrying wagonsfull of
borax, mining, etc. Both the Inn and the Ranch were
originally part of the Pacific Borax Company
(1881-1888). The Inn opened in 1927 and the Ranch opened
as a hostelry in 1930 (1933?) -- after being a working
ranch since 1881.
The Ranch was originally called
Greenland Ranch, and housed mineworkers at different times
from Harmony Borax Works (1907-1926) as well. Alfalfa
was grown on the property to feed the mules.
Please note that we are guessing,
here. We have not stayed at this specific
property. Our estimation that this place is worthwhile
is sort of an interpolation between Stovepipe Wells and
Furnace Creek Inn. We've stayed at the former and it was
too spartan; we've eaten at the latter and it was clearly
Beyond Mudhole in quality. The Inn is closed summers and
reopens in mid-October.
2006
Update. Furnace Creek Ranch was visited September 2006;
the cabins here are quite nice and intimate, but not really
rustic. The pool is large, with a constant water
temperature of 84 degrees. There's a good general store,
cafe, and good (expensive) restaurant. All follow the
European norm: the gratuity is included in all beverage
and meal prices.
Entrance fees
to Death Valley National Park have increased now to $20.00
(good for a week), up from $5 or $10 in the late 90's.
WHEN TO
GO AND HOW TO GET THERE:
- Located west of Pahrump,
Nevada.
- Shoulder seasons are too much
of a compromise and the bats are not as prevalent -- go in
July or August
"You appear to
have valuable information on your website.....We changed our
name from Amfac to Xanterra Parks and Resorts. Call
tollfree 800.236.7916. Our website is www.xanterra.com or guests
can still use the www.furnacecreekresort.com
to book reservations" ---Lynn Brannon
| FURNACE CREEK
RANCH |
- TRIES A
LITTLE TOO HARD TO PORTRAY THE OLD, WILD WEST
- ADJACENT TO
A FINE RESTAURANT AT THE INN AND BEAUTIFUL DESERT
SPRINGS AND OASIS (CLEARLY NOT LEFT IN ITS NATURAL
STATE, HOWEVER)
- TOO MANY
ROOMS
- SWIMMING
POOL
- RESTAURANT
- CAFE
- SALOON
- GENERAL
STORE
|
The Wildrose
Charcoal Kilns are quite a sight -- but note on the map the
long driving distance; even the ranger station is closed in
summer for lack of interest. Car trouble here spells
real trouble indeed. The Kilns were designed by Swiss
engineers and built by Chinese laborers 1877-79 for George
Hearst's Modock Consolidated Mining Company. These
structures are approximately 25' high with a diameter of 30
feet, and were stabilized by the CCC in the 1930's.

| MUDHOLE-RATING |
|
   |
QUIRKINESS |
   |
ACCOMMODATIONS |
   |
GOOD AREA FOOD |
   |
DIVERSIONS |
    |
COST |
Brief road trips
from The Ranch are the general appeal -- ghost towns, sand
dunes, etc. A particular favorite of ours is seeing the
bats at sunset at the pool at Stovepipe Wells (the bats
go after the bugs attracted to the artificial lighting).
And the coyotes watch the tourists from a distance.
Scotty's Castle is also very
interesting. Construction of this mediterranean-style
desert mansion for Chicago millionaire Albert Johnson was
begun in 1922 and never completed. Along the way, the
property fell into the hands of Walter E. Scott -- Death
Valley Scotty (hence, the name).
| ATTRACTIONS |
- SCOTTY'S CASTLE (ONE-HOUR DRIVE)
- BADWATER (282
FEET BELOW SEA LEVEL)
- AMAGORSA OPERA
HOUSE
- TECOPA HOT
SPRINGS (TO THE EAST)
- ZABRISKIE POINT
- TRONA TO THE
SOUTH (WHAT YOU WOULD IMAGINE THE WORLD TO BE LIKE
AFTER WORLD WAR THREE)
- THE BORAX MUSEUM
- UBEHEBE
CRATER
|
The average maximum
temperature in August is 113 degrees F and two degrees warmer
than that in July. The average minimum temperature in
December and January is 39 degrees F. Annual
rainfall is less than two inches.
The Amargosa Opera House.
Painter and dancer Marta Becket performs from October through
mid-May.
RESTAURANT
RECOMMENDATIONS |
- DINING ROOM AT FURNACE CREEK
INN
- DINING ROOM AT
FURNACE CREEN RANCH
|

There's an odd, open-air museum
at Rhyolite -- Goldwell (www.goldwellmuseum.org).
Rhyolite is a rather disappointing ghost town, 4 miles from
Beatty, Nevada (signs there boast "free parking"). This
is also the location of the Yucca Mountain Science Office
(yes, THAT Yucca Mountain is close-by to the
northeast).
ZZYZX. Getting to Death
Valley means, for most of us, taking I-15 east and getting off
at Baker. Just eight miles west of the Baker exits, one
sees the Zzyzx Road exit..... The Zzyzx Mineral Springs
anbd Health Resort, unfortunately is now the California State
University Desert Studies Center.
The gravel road from this exit to
Zzyzx is tough: 4-1/2 miles of washboard gravel.
The resort, begun in 1944, once boasted a two-story
60-room hotel, cruciform-shaped swimming pool, a chapel, and
an artificial lake. The founder, Curtis Howe Springer
dismantled an ocean freighter for parts used at his
resort. Springer was evicted in 1974, having neglected
to actually own the property he developed.
| RESOURCES |
- NATIONAL PARK INFORMATION
- www.deathvalley.com
- AMARGOSA OPERA
HOUSE
- P.O. BOX 8 --
DEATH VALLEY JUNCTION 92328
- 760.852.4441
|
We visited this property in February 1999
(Stovepipe Wells) and the site was again visited in September
2006 (Furnace Creek Ranch).
On this 2006
visit, a lightning storm dumped 0.52" of rain on Southern
Death Valley in about an hour; the result was loss of
electricity for 18 hours, many roads closed the next morning
but quickly re-opened, and the road system to badwater closed
-- and still closed two weeks later. Note the car on the
Photos Page..... |