Borrego Springs is wonderfully in the middle of absolutely nowhere -- in the 600,000 acre Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, actually.  It is too far off the freeways and its aquifer is too small to become another Palm Springs.  And, unfortunately, many areas have been poorly developed and there is no town center. 

In 1774, Juan Bautista de Anza and Fr. Francisco Garces pooled their knowledge about the area and lead 240 soldiers and colonists and a thousand horses, cattle, and mules on a winding journey which lead up through Borrego Valley enroute to founding the pueblo of San Francisco.  Anzo-Borrego State Park began its land acquisition in 1933.

La Casa del Zorro is a very nicely-developed, upscale property.  In recent years, however, the management has not reduced the summer rates as in years past.

Alternative lodging includes the upscale The Palms at Indian Head (760.767.7788) and MudHole-caliber Boynton's Hacienda del Sol (but don't believe them when they say that the critter on your wall is a "sunshine spider").

WHEN TO GO AND HOW TO GET THERE:

• Take Highway 78 east from Julian about 25 miles, then take S-3 to Borrego Springs
• Alternatively, take S2 and then S22 and enter the valley past Hellhole Palms; the descent into the valley is breath-taking. 
• Avoid the wildflower blooming season, 3/15--4/15 (due to large crowds of tourists)
• If the rates are going to drop at all, they will drop after June 15
• If staying at the Hacienda del Sol, go in January-February to avoid the noise of the swamp coolers

NEWSFLASH!!!!!  The Palms at Indian Head was visited July 2006 -- in the midst of a heat wave -- and is exceptional!  [Heat Wave = over 100 degrees by 9am, with a high of 118 degrees].  This property wins out over Casa del Zorro, even if Zorro were to reduce summer rates again.....

When this property was visited, no other rooms were rented and the staff put everything -- lights, music -- on timers.  Staff were present at check-in and check-out but seldom otherwise.  The maid drove in daily to make up the room and fill the ice chests, but otherwise the place belonged only to occupants of room 3.

The restaurant -- a wonderful place [Krazy Coyote Saloon & Grille] sampled in previous years -- closes just after July 4 and does not open again until late October.

The basics:  The Palms at Indian Head. 

2220 Hoberg Road -- P.O. Box 525 -- Borrego Springs, Ca  92004  760.767.7788  800.519.2624  www.thepalmsatindianhead.com 

The property was mentioned in Sunset Magazine (March 2006) and Variety Magazine (April 21, 2006).  David Leibert & Cynthia Wood, owners.

Rates are lowest, of course, in summer and highest in the spring.  Intermediate rates are set each for winter and fall. 

Ten rooms, all on the second floor plus two more poolside.  The ones poolside have fireplaces.  Air conditioners have a mighty task in summer and are not quite up to the challenge.  The property is nestled up against the mountains, just east of Palm Canyon Campground & Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  The pool is very large, with two underwater viewing windows.  The pool is said to be one of the largest privately-owned pools in California and is olympic-sized [42' X 109'].

Actually, the resort is at the base of Indian Head Mountain [the original Cahuilla name translates as "Rain-in-the-Face"].

Located on 240 acres, the resort was designed in 1957-8 in the California Modern Style with Mondrian influences.  Road-runners and bunnies abound on the grounds during the day and owls and other birds of prey circle the trees at night.

The predecessor resort, the Hoberg Desert Resort, was built in 1946-7.  Hoberg had a companion resort, Hoberg's in the Pines 100 miles north of San Francisco (Lake County).  Since each resort was seasonal [but different seasons], the plan was to shift employees back and forth between the properties to allow a single staff to run both properties.  (The plan failed.)

The grand opening was New Year's Day 1948.  Andy Devine (Roy Rogers sidekick "Jingles"), Lon Chaney, Jr., Marilyn Monroe and others stayed here.  The property had its own landing strip.  The place burned to the ground in 1958 due to a hot water heater explosion.

The resort was re-built the same year and included 56 bungalows -- and over the next twenty years saw service as a resort, nudist retreat, and detention facility before closing in 1978.  Then the property sat vacant for 15 years and deteriorated.  Renovations began in 1993 and the bungalows were demolished (due to fire hazard).

MAPQUEST: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?city=borrego+springs&state=CA&zip=92004&country=us&level=3

Sweet pink grapefruit are local produce here.

Weather averages:

• December:  low of 43, high of 67 degrees F.
• July:  low of 75, high of 107 degrees F.

While this area is home to bighorn sheep, kit foxes, and road-runners, we have only seen the latter (but rather often).

"Borrego Days" occur sometime in October.

We last visited this property in July 2001 (Hacienda del Sol) and El Zorro in 1999.  This property was visited (The Palms) in July 2006.